Explore the rural areas of Albania, a taste of local traditions and culture
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Albania has become a popular destination this year, with holidaymakers flocking to the Balkan country - thanks to its stunning coastal Riviera, writes Zinara Rathnayake in an article published in The National.

Last year, the Mediterranean country welcomed over 10 million visitors and I was lucky enough to be one of them.

Arriving late at night in Shkodër – an hour and a half north of Tirana International Airport – my host welcomes me with a plate of pancakes – served with homemade jam. I immediately felt welcomed and it was a feeling that accompanied me throughout my visit to Albania.

With a population of around 200, Shkodra is often the stopover for visitors between Montenegro and the snow-capped Albanian Alps.

But the town is worth exploring for its paths that lead to the 400-year-old Rozafa Castle – where two rivers weave ribbons across the surrounding landscape.

Shkodra is also perfect for exploring by bike – along its cobbled streets before heading into the countryside.

A 70-minute boat ride through the high canyons of the Lake Koman reservoir took me to Neomalsore Agrotourism, a guesthouse in the northern mountains.

The farmhouse has been owned by the Koçeku family for several generations – and offers a view of an emerald blue lake surrounded by rugged cliffs.

A flock of chickens, a goat and a lazy cat kept me company during my stay.

The guesthouse is just one of many new farm accommodations – run by families who embraced Albania's rural lifestyle, culinary habits and traditional hospitality.

Agritourism is helping to put rural Albania on the tourism map while simultaneously creating new economic opportunities.

"Neomalsore Agrotourism" is run by a Molla tribal family that belongs to one of the clans of the Highlands of Albania.

Marjana Koceku was the youngest daughter – who welcomed me with a glass of homemade brandy.

She told me that many tourists visit the area for a day trip, but that staying a few nights allows people to really enjoy the slow and sustainable local lifestyle.

In the evening, we sat outside for a candlelit dinner with other visitors. The Koceku family hosted a feast where they offered us – home-made cornbread, goat cheese, fresh-caught fish – grilled over a fire and farm-raised chicken – served with garden vegetables and honey.

Then, the next city was Berat, a 2400-year-old UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Here, the Osum River runs by the city and the old quarter of the city houses Ottoman-era residences with red ceramic roofs, white walls and wooden windows.

They are placed so closely together that it looks as if the wide windows are stacked on top of each other, giving the city its nickname, "the city of one-on-one windows."

On top of a steep hill nearby was Berat Castle, a 13th century fortress with preserved ancient walls, churches, local dwellings turned into houses and restaurants.

Berat can be crowded with visitors, especially during the summer season.

So I chose to stay at Alpeta Agrotourism, a winery and guesthouse offering guided hikes and kayak tours in the village of Roshnik – about 15 kilometers from Berat.

The restaurant was surrounded by grape vineyards and the staff served me a traditional lunch of grilled lamb and seasonal vegetables.

"The concept of agritourism helps locals promote rural areas as attractive travel destinations," said owner Petrit Fiska.

"It also helps farmers embrace old farming practices by earning additional income," he added.

A great treat awaits all those - who are looking for outdoor activities and quiet retreats throughout the Albanian countryside.

In Rubik, a small town south of Shkodra, I stayed for almost a week in a cozy wooden hut at "Baven-Toven Naturae".

Owner Byron Nicolli, who immigrated to Italy at the age of 14, had returned to his homeland almost two decades later – to open the isolated mountain road.

Nikolli now runs the guesthouse with the help of his parents and grandmother.

"I worked for many years in Italy and invested my savings to build this country. It was a sacrifice," he said.

"But I'm happy that everything worked out. It is a beautiful thing to see people arriving here every day from all over the world. And now we have hired two people. We have created jobs", he added.

Nikolli's grandmother greeted me every morning with a smile and an espresso.

Breakfast was local and seasonal with pies, pancakes and pancakes served with fig jam.

I spent my days visiting the village church and walking to a secluded natural spring along the river or enjoying a leisurely lunch at the nearby "Bar Restaurant Aleksi".

Filled with locals, this restaurant served traditional meatballs, stuffed peppers and pilaf./atsh/

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